News that Pierpaolo Piccioli is leaving Balenciaga is spreading fast through the industry. He's been at the house for one year, far too soon to leave, but perhaps the time a brand can afford to wait was even shorter. Industry sources say his couture-focused direction didn't translate into sales as Kering had hoped, and that menswear revenue in particular fell sharply.
After 25 years at Valentino, Piccioli took the baton from Demna and returned to Cristóbal Balenciaga's archive. He brought architectural silhouettes and a softer language of couture. The elegant volumes and craftsmanship he showed marked a clear break from the Demna era. It was a process of the house searching for a new direction.
This past July he presented his first haute couture collection. The runway filled with capes, voluminous gowns and feathered pieces brought that direction into even sharper focus. The audience witnessed the revival of classic French couture instead of Demna's street sensibility. But showroom response and actual sales are two different things.
Neither Piccioli nor the house has made an official announcement. The October 1 show is still on the schedule. The industry is watching to see whether he will really leave the house or get one more season. Piccioli's Balenciaga has only just begun to be written. Will this chapter close here?
Do you think Piccioli's couture direction was right for Balenciaga?
After 25 years at Valentino, Piccioli took the baton from Demna and returned to Cristóbal Balenciaga's archive. He brought architectural silhouettes and a softer language of couture. The elegant volumes and craftsmanship he showed marked a clear break from the Demna era. It was a process of the house searching for a new direction.
This past July he presented his first haute couture collection. The runway filled with capes, voluminous gowns and feathered pieces brought that direction into even sharper focus. The audience witnessed the revival of classic French couture instead of Demna's street sensibility. But showroom response and actual sales are two different things.
Neither Piccioli nor the house has made an official announcement. The October 1 show is still on the schedule. The industry is watching to see whether he will really leave the house or get one more season. Piccioli's Balenciaga has only just begun to be written. Will this chapter close here?
Do you think Piccioli's couture direction was right for Balenciaga?
FAQ
How long was Pierpaolo Piccioli at Balenciaga?
Pierpaolo Piccioli was at Balenciaga for one year. He joined as creative director in 2024, succeeding Demna, after leaving Valentino where he had spent 25 years.
Why is Piccioli leaving Balenciaga?
According to industry sources, Piccioli's couture-focused direction didn't translate into sales as Kering had hoped, with menswear revenue dropping significantly. However, no official statement has been made by Piccioli or the house yet.
When was Piccioli's first haute couture collection for Balenciaga?
Piccioli's first haute couture collection for Balenciaga debuted in July 2024. Filled with capes, voluminous dresses, and feather embellishments, it showcased an elegant couture vision rooted in Cristóbal Balenciaga's archives.
