J W A N D E R S O N
F A L L / W I N T E R
2 0 2 1
20 January. 2021
OF PAP MAGAZINE
JW Anderson revealed its Men’s Autumn Winter 2021 and Women’s Pre Fall 2021 Collections on Wednesday, 20th January 2021. Designed by Jonathan Anderson and styled by Benjamin Bruno, the 37 looks across both collections were presented in both physical and digital formats.
Juergen Teller shot the collections with Jonathan and Benjamin in his London studio in December of 2020. This marks the first time Jonathan Anderson and JW Anderson have collaborated with Teller. “Juergen has a very graphic eye and that’s exactly what these collections needed,” said Jonathan. Via Juergen’s images bodies turn into living sculptures, aided by the clothing and the vegetables which are present throughout both as props and within the garments.
British actress and singer Sophie Okonedo CBE appears in the images wearing the Women’s Pre Fall collection. The BAFTA and Oscar-nominated actress most recently starred in the Ryan Murphy Netflix series Ratched where both Juergen and Jonathan were so awestruck by her performance they asked her to appear in the shoot. For each of her looks the actress inhabited a different character enhancing the drama in already powerful images.
The collections are a palate cleanser; simultaneously fresh and a revival of the genesis of JW Anderson: blurring the divides between Men’s and Women’s collections. The looks are blunt, conceptual and stark. Glorified like in Dutch still life painting, vegetables are printed onto garments. Surplus shearling was transformed in a novel way: dyed by hair stylist Anthony Turner. The clothes have that spirit, that slight perverseness. Men’s leather trousers take on sculptural proportions with geometric side panels. Brightly coloured extra-long mohair jumpers lean into tunic territory while other tops arrive embellished with hand-woven radishes or utility pockets. Chain loafers reappear in new colourways and prints like cheetah but also as an open-toed slide. The Women’s collection comes to life on Sophie Okonedo in a curved trench with oversized sleeves. Asymmetry meets twisted tailoring in jackets and trousers paired with a chain hobo bag in soft leather.
Advancing and evolving the language he adopted for his Men’s Spring Summer 2021 presentation, Jonathan collaborated with both Juergen and OK-RM to create a physical presentation of the images. Nineteen double-sided posters featuring the 37 images were annotated with captions by Juergen, referencing the image on the reverse, creating a strange, amusing conceptual confusion. The posters along with a personal letter from Jonathan were organised into custom cardboard triangular mailing tubes and sent to “guests” around the globe.
“We chose a poster for this season because I wanted it to feel like you had visited an exhibition. The captions that don’t really fit with the image they are on gives that kind of feeling. And it’s as though you visited an exhibition or a gallery and had this piece of ephemera, this poster, to take home with you,” said Jonathan.
Digital look book images were revealed across JW Anderson’s social media channels and on the Paris Fashion Week online platform along with a short video featuring Jonathan presenting the collections and speaking to his inspirations and what it was like to bring this collection presentation to life during the pandemic.