G m b H
S P R I N G
13 July. 2020
Part 1 Guest on Earth
OF PAP MAGAZINE
OF PAP MAGAZINE
OF PAP MAGAZINE
GMBH was founded on the very principal of using fashion as a platform to start conversations about race, beauty, and the struggles of minorities.
With SPRING 2021, GmbH is not showing a collection in the normal sense, but rather as 3 projects experimenting with how fashion can be a progressive force. The first project is the short film Guest On Earth made in collaboration with director Francisco Sendino. As the most normal of things have become the new luxuries, we wanted to show the ordinary things that happen every day, in our neighbourhood in Berlin as rituals of resistance. In the same week we filmed, neo-nazis attacked a much loved Syrian family business in the night, right here in our Kiez*.
The film features glimpses into peoples lives, as an invisible being, perhaps an angel, passes them while listening in on their innermost thoughts. The music was composed by local artist Lyra Pramuk.
Part 2 Season of Migration to the North
Instead of a fashion show this season, GmbH will present a work by artist Lars Laumann and activist and architect Eddie Esmail, shown as part of Paris Fashion Weeks official program. Season Of Migration To The North is the true story of Eddie Esmail, who with a group of friends staged a fashion show in Khartoum, Sudan in 2010. Esmail,who had a background in LGBTQI+ activist work, was shortly after the show arrested by the police for being gay along other members of the group. Esmail had to flee Sudan, and is today a political refugee in Norway, where he met Laumann. While Season Of Migration To The
North touches on many complex issues, GmbH specifically relates so strongly to the work for its intersection of race, migration LGBTQ+ rights and fashion. The film shows how the innocent act of a fashion show, can be both subversive and fiercely political. The film is normally only shown in the limited context of museums and galleries, and GmbH wanted to recontextualise the work, and show it to a broader audience as part of their Paris Fashion Week presentation. GmbH was founded on the very principal of using fashion as a platform to start conversations about race, beauty, and the struggles of marginalised communities. With SPRING 2021, GmbH is not showing a collection in the normal sense, but rather as projects experimenting with how fashion can be a progressive force. The two film works GmbH is showing, first Guest On Earth and secondly Season Of Migration To The North are linked by references to the queer Norwegian modernist poet Gunvor Hofmo. Both films recite parts of her poem I Want To Go Home To The Humans, from 1946, when she was only 25. Hofmo spent most of her life in a psychiatric ward, after her girlfriend Ruth Maier, an Austrian Jewish refugee in Norway, was deported to Bergen Belsen and killed as Germany occupied Norway.
Part 3 S21 Lookbook Images
The SPRING 2021 collection started as a rather pragmatic project, in our attempt at first, to make a small commercial collection with the limited resources and time we had. We could only work with materials we had in our studio, as suppliers and mills were closed, and as both GmbH founders got ill from covid-19, in addition to other overwhelming tasks that occur when running a business in a crisis, our time was cut short. We named the season Spring (as opposed to Spring Summer), to indicate both a sense of abruption of time, but also a new beginning.
In the process, however, we discovered that the limitations forced a new sense of focus on what GmbH is, our ideals and what the GmbH wardrobe consists of. All the styles are based on familiar GmbH staples, mixing our cultural heritage and the city of Berlin with formality, uniforms, fetishes and stereotypes. The collection is unashamedly un-gendered, but plays with codes of performed identities such as butch and femme, no matter how you identify. Reoccuring throughout is GmbHs double zips, taken from German carpenter uniforms, and put on trousers and shorts in vegan leather. Vegan leather shirts and organic cotton vests have built in harness constructions. The classic GmbH Chappal loafer, inspired by the cross design of traditional Pakistani sandals, are reimagined as mules in signal red and black velvet. Jewellery in sterling silver and recycled resin and off cut semi-precious stones are designed in collaboration with Panconesi. Colour blocked intarsia knits have suggestive peek-a-boo holes, while workwear-inspired contrast topstitches adorn tailored coats in cotton twill. Vegan leather appears both in black and baby blue, while the hardness of the leather is contrasted with flowing satin shirts tied above the midriff. Some shirts and ties are simply made from GmbH logo jacquard lining materials, exemplifying the use of resources. GmbH was founded on the very principal of using fashion as a platform to start conversations about race, beauty, and the struggles of marginalised communities. With SPRING 2021, GmbH is not showing a collection in the normal sense, but rather as 3 projects experimenting with how fashion can be a progressive force. The first part was the film Guest On Earth which premiered as part of Not In Paris. The second part, the film Season Of Migration To The North will be shown at the same time as the collection, as part of the online Paris Fashion Week. The collection should be seen in combination with these films as a joined statement.